ROME. 255 are substantial stone buildings and the second-class carriages far better than those of Japan. TO MRS. HARDY. RoME, May 29, 1884. I visited St. Peter's this morning, and was per­fectly bewildered by its richness and vastness. It is far beyond my description. I gave especial attention to the few Raphaels there. But my desire for the fine arts is too profound, and I must cut short my stay in Rome, for I shall be tempted to overdo. I could but pity those poor devotees who kissed the toe of that bronze statue of St. Peter. While I was gazing this afternoon at that beautiful interior of S. Paolo Fuori le Mura I began to wonder and query what St. Paul would say of the building, or rather of the builder, if he should rise to-day. I should like to ask both Peter and Paul their private opinions of these things done in their honor. I am myself too radical and too practical, and as I cannot get replies at once from these departed apostles mu~t be contented with my own opinions and criticisms. I have called on our mimster and Rev. A. G. Gray; also upon the Minis­ter of Public Instruction. The rector of the Collegio Romano showed me over this Jesuit college, and I had a long conversation with Dr. Ottavio Grampini, the librarian. I have also visited several schools with the director of primary instruction. So I do not devote myself altogether to sight-seeing, but am trying to solve problems about this nation, its future and draw­backs. This is a great place to study humanity. I find traveling and sight-seeing both expensive and fa­tiguing, and shall try to find some good resting-place in Switzerland or Scotland before coming to you. I